It is very easy to get to Pilsen from Prague – only a one-hour bus journey, courtesy of the Student Agency bus company. From the bus station I took a tram three stops to Republic Square. The synagogue was within walking distance. I was curious about the second largest synagogue in the world and the third largest in the world with a capacity of 2,500 people.
I was very impressed by the façade and two towers. Under the gabled roof of the structure of capping brick and stone blocks is a large Star of David. The two towers flanking the middle portion of the building have imperial domes and a belfry as well as a crown and the Star of David. The onion-shaped domes reminded me of some of the churches I had seen in Saint Petersburg, Russia.
I gaped as I perused the spellbinding features. Built in 1892, the synagogue combines an Oriental interior with elements of Neo-Renaissance, found mostly in the corridors. The carved rostrum of the three-aisled ground floor has a simple, yet dignified design. Two stairways lead up to the platform with the rostrum. One of the things I admired most was the vaulted ceiling decoration of blue with gold painting with plant motifs. The use of gold for decoration throughout the synagogue was very pleasing to the eye. The staircase had a metal, golden balustrade. The vestibule included beautiful stucco decoration with gold as well. I also noticed the stucco décor with motifs such as David’s Star on the balustrade. I saw the organ, dating from 1890. I remembered reading that there had been a big choir here until World War II.
What entranced me the most, though, was not the exquisite vaulted ceiling, but the three stained glass windows above the cornice in the western side of the synagogue. Dating from 1893, the three windows show a design of circles and oblong shapes, geometric figures in bright colors. They seemed to glisten in the dim lighting. I walked to the upper gallery, where I could have touched them if I had wanted to. Instead, I just stood there, fascinated at their beauty.
I sat down in the balcony, where women had sat for generations because they were not allowed to sit with the men, and I pondered over the history of Jews in Pilsen. It all began in the 13th century when Jews first came to this city, and King Přemysl Otakar II allowed them religious freedom. At the start of the 15th century, most Jews bartered in spices, pepper and ginger, and two synagogues existed here during that time period. Yet during the reign of King Vladislav II, in 1504, Jews were expelled from Pilsen, and they didn’t return until 1584. Other hardships occurred.
Then things got better. Jews obtained more freedom during 1848-49, when the ghetto that had been created due to the reforms of Holy Roman Emperor and ruler of the Habsburg Empire Joseph II was destroyed. (Emperor Joseph II had been a devout Catholic and an enthusiast for Germanization.) Jews no longer had to pay special taxes. Then, finally in 1867, a constitution was passed, stating political and religious equality, allowing Jews to move house as they pleased and to own property. They were even offered state citizenship. It is no wonder, then, that many Jews headed for this city in the 1860s. The Jewish community of Pilsen thrived during the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, and Jews ran significant businesses in the city.
After World War II, the synagogue was returned to the Jewish community, but the last regular service took place in 1973 as the building became more and more dilapidated. Finally, it was closed down. Reconstruction occurred from 1995-97, and it reopened to the public on February 11, 1998. A service was held here once again, after 26 years, on September 20, 1998, celebrating the Jewish New Year. The first wedding in 61 years was held at this synagogue on June 6, 1999. There was extensive renovation during the 21st century, too.
Before heading back to Prague, I took advantage of the beautiful, sunny weather and sat outside at a café on the main square. I also visited an art exhibition called Through the eyes of Franz Kafka, focusing on art in the Czech lands during the time period Kafka was in Prague. There I gazed at Kafka’s drawings, paintings by Czech artist Bohumil Kubišta and sculpture by Czech master František Bílek. I also saw some Japanese art that was popular during that era. I ate lunch in U Salzmannů, the oldest pub in the city and my favorite restaurant in Pilsen. The Czech food at that establishment is top-notch. I also stayed at the restaurant’s pension upstairs for several nights many years ago, during a theatre festival. I was very pleased with the accommodation. Since I only rarely drink alcohol, though, I did not try the legendary Pilsner Urquell beer brewed in this city.
Tracy A. Burns is a writer, proofreader and editor in Prague.
My favorite restaurant in Pilsen – U Salzmannů
From Pilsen art gallery exhibition Through the Eyes of Franz Kafka
From Pilsen art gallery exhibition Through the Eyes of Franz Kafka
From Pilsen art gallery exhibition Through the Eyes of Franz Kafka
Tracy's Travels 